Small Axe Truck

I've been hearing great things about Small Axe Truck for months. Not being one to find myself in the Congress Square Park area during daylight hours very often, my opportunities to stop by have been minimal. Haddockquest has a way of opening-up new doors, however, and recent ramblings over Small Axe's fried haddock sandwich served as the final push towards an initial visit.

Before I launch into this review, let me just say that Small Axe is something quite unique. This may be a food truck, but it's a food truck with veritable table service that has turned Congress Square Park into a beautiful and relaxing al fresco dining space. The menu is unique and decadent, with many ingredients sourced locally (including their haddock, sourced from Salt + Sea). It's hip, yet genuine and well thought-out, embodying everything I love about Portland's dining scene.

Small Axe serves their haddock sandwich on a brioche bun with preserved lemon, Caesar dressing, red onion, tomato and house-made coleslaw (on the sandwich itself), along with a small side of pickles. The haddock itself is beer-battered, which is something I have a very difficult time not appreciating when it comes to fried food of any kind. Those who have been following Haddockquest, however, know that this is surely the least traditional preparation we've encountered so far (3 Buoys and Gilbert's take that category); ordering was both exciting and anxiety-producing. The sandwich is priced at $9. I also enjoyed a cup of their homemade iced green tea, which brought the bill to $12.50.

What we have here is a haddock sandwich that differentiates itself from the competition at first glance with its glistening, buttery brioche bun that stares you square in the eye. The bun at David's may have been that sandwich's only saving grace, but this one puts it and all others encountered thus far to shame.

Next up was the beer batter, which couldn't have been more perfect. Light, exceptionally crispy and featuring a depth of flavor that isn't often seen among its peers, this is a batter that's worth its weight in gold. The preserved lemon was an excellent touch, with the Caesar and homemade slaw also providing great contrast between "fried" and "bright" that made this sandwich utterly crushable. The pickles on the side were not your average bears, either. These were clearly made in-house, featuring a smokey, complex brine that I couldn't get enough of.

It's difficult to find too many faults here, but if there's one thing that needs to be pointed out, it's portion size. Small Axe's haddock filet may have been perfectly fried, but it was simply too small to properly stand-up against everything else that was going on. At times, for example, the acidity of the preserved lemon proved to be too much due to a lack of balance, which could've been cured by a slightly heftier portion of fish. Local haddock doesn't come cheap, though, does it?

All things considered, I'd be lying if I said I didn't think Small Axe was a great addition to Portland's already-strong dining scene. If their haddock sandwich is any indication of the quality of the rest of their food, this humble little truck may be the best on-the-go lunch option in the area right now.

The Verdict — Unique, perfectly-fried and loaded with flavor. A must-try. (★★★★)